QuiltSandwich Frequently Asked Question
How to find fabric grain
Fabric grain matters the most with rectangles, borders and binding.
Quilters cotton has a grain because it is a woven fabric, made on a loom. How the threads are woven on the loom determines the crosswise grain and lengthwise grain.
Often, instructions simply state to cut "on the straight of grain." Both crosswise and lengthwise are considered 'straight of grain'.
Lengthwise grain
The fabric threads run parallel to the selvage edges. This direction is very firm and has no give, or stretch.
This is the length of fabric purchased off the bolt.
Crosswise grain
The fabric threads run the width of the fabric, perpendicular to the selvage. This direction has some stretch.
Fabric comes off the bolt folded selvage to selvage.
Finding grain in fabric purchased off a bolt
Fabric with the selvages intact make finding the grain straightforward:
Lengthwise grain runs along the same direction as the selvages, called the length of fabric.
Crosswise grain runs from selvage to selvage, called the width of fabric (WOF). Another term often used is 'usable width of fabric', that means the width of your fabric minus its selvedges.
Find the grain in a pre-cut or scrap
Pre-cuts and scraps don't have selvage edges to help you identify the fabric grain. Pulling on the fabric straight of grain will tell you what you need to know!
Here's how to test:
Grab the fabric, one side in each hand, and pull your hands apart.
What do you feel?
Give? Crosswise grain
Firm with very little or no stretch? Lengthwise grain
Very stretchy? You must be pulling on the diagonal, called Bias
Here's an easy way to remember:
Crosswise — ss = selvage to selvage & some stretch
Lengthwise — ns = no stretch
Use fabric grain to your advantage on Rectangles • Borders • Bindings
The Yardage Calculator has two settings to give you the control over the piece layout in the cutting diagram. The setting 'Find Best' chooses the layout that uses the least fabric. The setting 'Force Layout' puts the piece Length on the lengthwise grain.
Putting the longest side on the lengthwise grain will make it easier to assemble strip sets that lay flat. For die cutting, 'Force Layout' will create a cutting diagram for strips that will not stretch as they are fed into the die cutter.
Border and Bindings: Work with the grain to fit your project
QuiltSandwich creates cutting diagrams for Horizontal, Vertical, Mitered Borders and Straight Binding. QuiltSandwich lets you set Binding and Borders to either Crosswise or Lengthwise grain — because sometimes you need options! In the example below, the cutting diagram shows that there is no difference in yardage — so choose the grain that will make it easier to add the border to your project!
Straight, double-fold binding in CROSSWISE cut direction. The fabric strips will have some stretch or give. (Note: fold is across from the selvage.)
Straight, double-fold binding in LENGTHWISE cut direction. The fabric strips will have no stretch or firm. (Note: fold is across from the cut ends.)